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There are many a reason why tourists flock to London, and gorgeous as it may be, with its iconic red telephone boxes and gorgeous Victorian-era architecture, be under no illusion: being the global metropolis it is, it’s anything but undeniably British at its core.
Don’t get us wrong. We love London for its diverse food scene and vibrant culture, but if you’re looking for Old England, with the half-timbered pubs and quaint, lamp-lit streets, you certainly won’t find it here.
On the other hand, this smaller city nearby has all the medieval allure and authentic British charm you’ve been dreaming of, and something you might not know, it was even the country’s capital before London took up that mantle:
Behold Winchester, England’s Old Capital
A picturesque city in Hampshire, only 67 miles southwest of London, Winchester has to be one of England’s most underrated cultural getaways.
Though it is home to one of the most stunning Gothic cathedrals in Europe and a well-preserved historic center that’s seen few major changes to its townscape since the Middle Ages, it receives only a small fraction of the tourism other larger English cities do.
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Formerly the capital of England, before London caught up with it, and once the seat of King Alfred the Great, who went down in History as a fierce defender of England against Viking raiders, Winchester has plenty to keep the culture buff in you entertained.
Needless to say, the most important landmark here is Winchester Cathedral, a monumental edifice that is alone worth the Transatlantic crossing:
One Of The Most Monumental Medieval Cathedrals In Europe
Founded as early as 1079 by the Normans on the site of a much-older Saxon church, it was continuously remodeled and expanded well into the 15th century, when it achieved its final form:
Picture a huge Gothic nave, one of the longest in Europe, a stunning Great Screen, standing behind the high altar, and rows upon rows of choir stalls, delicately carved in aged Norwegian oak wood.
Fan of Realist novels much? Jane Austin is buried here, with her memorial stone found in the north aisle of the nave, as are a long succession of kings and queens. Notable names include King Æthelwulf, Alfred the Great’s father, King Edmund I, and Queen Emma.
Before Westminster in London superseded it in importance, Winchester was also the crowning site of English kings, and the city itself the country’s center of power:
A Picture-Perfect Historic Center
Remnants of Winchester’s glorious past can still be seen all around the Old Town.
Over at The Great Hall, the best-preserved bit of the once-great Winchester Castle, you’ll find the iconic ‘Round Table‘, associated with the legend of King Arthur, solemn vaulted-ceiling chambers, and beautiful courtyards.
Standing at the edge of the Old City, Westgate is yet another must-see: it used to form part of Winchester’s city walls, which have since sustained damage, though the gate itself is in a great state of preservation, and even houses a medieval history museum.
Set along the River Itchen, within walking distance of the cathedral itself, Wolvesey Castle is a scenic ruined fortress known for being the medieval residence of the Bishops of Winchester.
For lively pubs and souvenir shops, take a stroll down the centrally-located Jewry Street, and for that hidden gem tourists often skip, Cheyney Court is a timber-framed court near the cathedral, perfectly preserved from the Middle Ages.
Pub Culture Like No Other In Britain
Something we love Winchester for, other than the beautiful architecture, of course, is the pub scene, which in quite honesty, rivals that of London’s (in)famously jam-packed Shoreditch.
The Black Boy is a local favorite, due to its quirky, eclectic decor that never seems to stick to a single theme, backstreet-feeling, and affordable ales.
Overlooking the Itchen, and housed in a landmark 19th-century red-brick building, The Bishop on the Bridge serves your usual pub fare, from beer-battered fish with a side of chips, to half-roasted BBQ chicken, and prices aren’t London-high (a main dish and a drink will cost $22–24).
For hearty British food in a homely environment, The Royal Oak is another strong contender: it claims to be one of the oldest pubs in England, and though we haven’t been able to verify that statement, it is supported by wood pillars, it has medieval-style low ceilings, and an Old World ambiance.
Getting To Winchester This Season
The easiest way to reach Winchester is to first fly into London and take a day trip out.
Trains to Winchester typically depart from London Waterloo Station, and the journey takes about an hour. As for fares, advance, off-peak tickets start from around $22 one-way.
For those staying in Winchester overnight, rooms at the voco Winchester Hotel & Spa by IHG start from only $83-a-night (2 adults).
Looking for other offbeat, yet-to-be-ruined English spots? Check out this small coastal town in Cornwall that tourists have yet to discover.
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