“Would you like to sign up for the day trip to Arcachon?”, the cruise director asked as we went through my list of excursions. I was on an 8-day Bordeaux wine cruise and had nothing planned for the following day. I asked him about Arcachon and he summed up the top attractions in just a few words: “Beaches, oysters and Belle Époque architecture”. That was more than enough to convince me; “Oh yes, sign me up please!”. Little did I know then that this excursion would be one of the highlights of the cruise.
Arcachon aerial view (image by A.Czapp/Unsplash)
Arcachon is a beach town roughly 60km southwest of Bordeaux (map). Located at the edge of the vast Arcachon Bay, one of the top oyster farming areas in France, Arcachon is surrounded by Landes Forest, the largest man-made woodlands in Western Europe. Nearby lies Dune du Pilat, Europe’s tallest dunes. Previously a small fishing community, Arcachon was developed into a seaside resort in the late-19th/early-20th centuries, the Belle Époque era, for the well-heeled in Bordeaux. The wealthy built opulent villas in a mix of architectural styles, from Gothic and Moorish to Swiss and Victorian, which have since become collectively known as the Arcachonnaise (Arcachon villas).
A lovely café in Arcachon
Arcachon: a town of four seasons
The town is divided into four districts, one for each season. The summer district encompasses the town centre, whilst the winter district, located in the hills overlooking the centre, is home to the most extravagant Arcachonnaise. The autumn district covers the port and the fishermen’s community of l’Aiguillon, and the spring district includes the southern beaches and Le Moulleau, a vibrant seaside neighbourhood.
One of the many Arcachonnaise in the winter district
We reached Arcachon in a little over an hour from Bordeaux. Just before entering the town, we turned off the main road into the La Teste-de-Buch port. Situated on an inlet of Arcachon Bay, the port area is popular for its oyster bars and restaurants. The oyster producers have their farms in the bay but serve them fresh at these eateries on the banks of the inlet.
La Teste-de-Buch inlet at low tide
Arcachon oysters
I love oysters so I was very excited when the bus came to a halt at Kabane 171, a small restaurant situated at the tip of the peninsula that juts into the inlet. The proprietor greeted us with a big smile and gave us a lively presentation about the oyster farming industry in Arcachon Bay.
Presentation about oyster farming
We dug into the oysters shortly thereafter, paired with a gorgeous white wine from the Bordeaux region. They were absolutely divine: a delicious, layered flavour with distinct notes of brine and balanced by a light sweetness and savoury umami.
Delicious Arcachon oysters.
Arcachon town centre: the summer district
Our next stop was the town centre. As we entered the town, we drove past shady avenues lined by gorgeous villas. The villas, each with a unique appearance, absolutely steal the show! Even if you’re not a fan of oysters and you don’t care too much about beaches, a day trip to Arcachon from Bordeaux is absolutely worth the effort because of these beautiful villas.
Arcachon villa
The bus dropped us off at the Arcachon Casino that’s housed in the castle-like Château Deganne. From there, we explored the town centre on foot. On the other side of the casino was the promenade and the beach. The promenade, packed with restaurants, cafés and shops, was especially lively. The sandy beach looked very inviting but I had quite a bit of exploring to do.
Arcachon Casino 
The promenade runs the length of the beach
At the far end of the beach is Jetée Thiers, a historic pier, from which boats depart regularly for bay tours and to Cap Ferrat, an upscale beach community on the other side of the bay.
Jetée Thiers 
The beach
After a terrific lunch at Grand Café Victoria, I spent some time walking around the town centre, popping into various shops and enjoying the relaxed atmosphere. I especially loved the colourful façades and food outlets. If you’re a foodie, don’t miss trying an Arcachon Dune Blanche or Cannelé, absolutely delicious pastries which you’ll find at bakeries such as Chez Pascal Dune Blanches.
I loved this shop! 
Arcachon market 
Buy some delicious Dunes Blanches here.
I browsed around the stalls in the chique Arcachon Market (visitors can enjoy a reasonably-priced oyster-tasting there) before heading to the winter district.
Arcachon market
The winter district
Located in the hills behind the town centre, the winter district, with its stunning villas, is a must-see in Arcachon. To get there, I took the staircase from the town centre, but there’s also an elevator that takes visitors straight to Parc Mauresque, a leafy park with beautiful views.
A cute Arcachon villa along Ave. Victor Hugo
It was a delight to walk around this district and admire the villas. With their sweeping roofs, impressive turrets, decorative brickwork and intricate lacework, they look straight out of a fairytale. Some of the most beautiful villas west of Parc Mauresque include Villa Toledo, Villa Alexandre Dumas (where the famous writer lived for a while), Villa Margherite and Villa Trocadero. It’s clear that the architects had a great time conjuring up whimsical designs with lavish lace balconies, grand staircases and Victorian turrets.
Villa Alexandre Dumas (image by Go69/Wikimedia Commons)
Some of my favourites in the area east of Parc Mauresque, including Villa Siguro and Villa Beatrix, can be found around Place Turenne and along Avenue Victor Hugo.
Villa Siguro
On my way back to the Casino, I discovered more beautiful villas around Avenue Nelly Deganne.
Another cute house 
A beautiful Belle Epoque door
Other things to do in Arcachon
My visit to Arcachon was one of the excursions during my 8-day Bordeaux wine cruise with Avalon Waterways. I wish I could’ve spent more time there as I absolutely loved the architecture and vibes. I also learned that there are many other things to do in Arcachon. These include taking the ferry across the bay to Cap Ferrat for a seaside lunch or food tour, exploring the Le Moulleau neighbourhood, biking through the Landes Forest and climbing Dune du Pilat. I’ll certainly return and spend a few nights in Arcachon – I would love to stay in one of those villas!
Dune du Pilat (image by B.Osten/Unsplash)
How to get to Arcachon
Arcachon is an easy day trip from Bordeaux as there are frequent trains (from Bordeaux St. Jean station) that take less than an hour to get there. You can also join a day tour from Bordeaux that includes Arcachon, Dune de Pilat and La Teste-de-Buch port (for oyster-tasting).
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