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Ah, Rome… with its narrow alleys lined by centuries-old buildings, ancient monuments that have stood the test of time, and an enviable collection of churches so grand they seem to hover just shy of the divine.
Few cities can compare, and it would undoubtedly be the perfect contender for a culture-infused summer getaway—if not for the insane crowds that turn the Eternal City into the ninth circle of Dantean hell.
They gather around the Trevi Fountain from dusk to dawn, crowd the Colosseum, St. Peter’s Basilica, and, more recently, even the once-laid-back Trastevere isn’t safe.
We’re staunch Romanophiles ourselves, but we’re giving the Italian capital a pass this year until their crowd problem is sorted. Instead, we’re heading north, to a culturally charged city that has yet to get its laurels, where mass tourism is still a secondary concern.
Oh, and did we mention it even has beaches?
Welcome to Genoa: The Bustling Capital of Liguria
Italy’s sixth-largest city, with a population of over 563,000, Genoa is a vibrant metropolis on the Ligurian Sea, known historically for its maritime heritage, well-preserved medieval core—one of Europe’s largest, at that—and rich gastronomy.
That’s already quite the summary, but don’t worry, we’ll delve into further detail, starting with the Centro Storico, which has far smaller crowds than Rome’s:
It is a complex labyrinth of narrow alleys (locally known as caruggi in the Genovese dialect), dotted with small piazzas, bordered by family-owned trattorias and boutique shops, and richly-decorated Baroque churches.
Stretching from the Porto Antico area, or Old Port, in use since the Middle Ages, all the way to the hills that surround the city, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, including several of Genoa’s must-see landmarks:
We’re talking the San Lorenzo Cathedral, with its striking black-and-white striped façade—and for the history buffs out there, the treasury is said to hold the Holy Grail.
Via Garibaldi, a pedestrianized street lined with stately Renaissance edifices, like Palazzo Rosso (Red Palace) and Palazzo Bianco (White Palace), that are home to paintings by Caravaggio, Rubens, and other famous painters.
Piazza San Matteo is a picture-perfect square flanked by medieval buildings that were once owned by Genoa’s once-powerful Doria family. There is even the Palazzo Ducale—yep, like the one in Venice—a 13th-century mansion where the Genovese doge used to reside.
Far Smaller Crowds Than Rome
Contrary to Italy’s most popular tourism spots, however, you’re unlikely to come upon long waiting lines, or obstructed pathways walking around Old Genoa:
On average, it receives around 2-3 million tourists per year, a majority of which are just passing through on their way to Portofino, Cinque Terre, and other Ligurian destinations.
Meanwhile, Rome hosts a much higher 15 million, on average, Venice a whopping 20-25 million, including day trippers (no wonder they’ve introduced a ticketing system), and Florence trails behind with roughly 10 million.
Needless to say, Genoa feels significantly less crowded in comparison, despite being a major transit hub, and port of call for cruise ships in the Mediterranean.
That being said, Genoa is a big city, and the Old Town is only the tip of the iceberg.
Stately Buildings & Quaint Harbor Areas
As you leave the narrow alleys and make your way towards Piazza de Ferrari, you’ll be met with a monumental square bordered by elegant Belle époque buildings, one of them being Teatro Carlo Felice, Genoa’s historic opera house.
The square’s centerpiece, a modernist bronze fountain with a marble base, is yet another Genoese icon, but if you’re looking to see a true marvel of engineering, head next to the Montegalleto Elevator:
Connecting Via Balbi, near the university, to Castelletto, a hilly district best-known for its fairytale castle, it is a unique hybrid elevator that first travels horizontally, like a train, through a tunnel for about 300 meters before finally going up a vertical 50.
There are countless other heritage elevators scattered around Genoa, connecting the lower city to the upper zones. The best part is, they are part of the public transport system, so your bus and metro tickets are valid!
Away from the center, there’s Boccadasse, a snapshot into life in Liguria back when it was mostly made up of fishing villages.
If you’re short on time and you won’t be visiting Cinque Terre, then you should definitely come down to Boccadasse for dinner: it has the same pastel-colored houses, a protected harbor with a pebbly beach, and a plethora of traditional eateries.
Scenic Pebbly Beaches
Speaking of beaches, Genoa is well-known for its swimming spots, usually backed by postcard-ready city views.
One of the most-frequented, and easily-reached by bus from the city center, is Spiaggia di Vernazzola, just east of Boccadasse: it’s yet another cozy pebbly stretch, except this one has an even more local, quieter feel.
Further east, Sturla is a wider beach with a combination of sandy patches and rocks, though if you prefer the convenience of nearby beach bars and gelato shops, head back west towards Priaruggia, in the residential Quarto dei Millei neighborhood.
The good thing about Genoa is that it is a short train ride from several of Italy’s most iconic coastal settings, most notably Portofino, only 44 minutes away.
Portofino is a small harbor town (in)famous for being a dressy and upscale destination with staggering restaurant prices. However, most people don’t know that the coastal path between Portofino and the neighboring Santa Margherita is interspersed with peaceful, swim-friendly coves.
Some are private, overseen by boutique hotels, yet most are free to visit. Just make sure you get there early to get a good spot on one of the tiny beaches, or else you’ll be sitting on the rocks.
Then there’s Sestri Levanti, a peaceful beach town featuring Liguria’s traditional warm-tone houses, 29 minutes by regional train, and Camogli, an even shorter 19 minutes from downtown Genoa, famous for its crescent-shaped, dark-pebble beach and medieval castle.
How Cheap Is Genoa To Visit?
If you’re on a stricter budget, you’ll be glad to know Genoa can be far more affordable than Rome and the like:
- For starters, it’s less touristy, so prices tend to be moderate
- Genoa has a more ‘everyday life’ feel than the capital, which can feel at times like a tourist’s playground
- The cost of living is lower, from food items, to transport, to cultural activities
Let’s take a look at the chart:
| Category | Genoa | Rome (and similar touristy cities) |
| Hotel (mid-range per night) | $70–120 | $120–200+ |
| Meals at mid-range restaurants | $15–25 | $25–40+ |
| Public transport ticket | $1.50–2 | $1.50–2.50 |
| Tourist attractions on average | $9–11 | $16–20 |
Overall, Genoa is 1.5 to 2 times cheaper than Rome.
Looking for other cheaper, less-busy, equally exciting destinations in Italy to beat the crowds this summer? Have fun hunting for those hidden gems here.
Vinicius Costa
Vini, our senior lead writer at Travel Off Path, has over 60+ countries under his belt (and currently weaving tales from Paris!), and a knack for turning off-the-beaten-path experiences into informative stories that will have you packing your bags.
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This article originally appeared on TravelOffPath.com
Opinions expressed here are the author’s alone, not those of any bank, credit card issuer, hotel, airline, or other entity. This content has not been reviewed, approved or otherwise endorsed by any of the entities included within the post.
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