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Rajnagar located close to Madhubani in Mithila Bihar is one of the erstwhile royal cities of the region. It had a short life due to a massive earthquake that hit this region in 1934. I walked through this ruined city and discovered its grandeur and spirituality.
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History of Rajnagar
Rajnagar was built by Rameshwar Singh, who was the younger brother of the king of Darbhanga. It was built between 1884 and 1929 CE. Soon after the earthquake hit it, bringing down many buildings and damaging others. It was never re-built again.
Navalakha Palace of Rajnagar
Spread over 1500 acres, this royal quarters includes various palaces and temples. Just as we saw in Darbhanga, the royal family followed the Shakta path, you see many temples dedicated to different manifestations of Devi. The palaces give the glimpses of the grandeur of the past.
Places to See in Rajnagar
As we got down from our car, we first saw a bright building with bright pink pillars in front of us. It must have been a palace once, without a doubt. The corridors were reasonably maintained giving me a feeling that the building is in use.
Vishveshwar Singh Janata Mahavidyalaya
Sure, as we walked around, we saw the board – Vishveshwar Singh Janta Mahavidyalaya. It is a college affiliated with Lalit Narayan Mithila University of Darbhanga.
We walked through the ornate iron gate and found us standing in a huge courtyard surrounded by the palace turned college premises. Double pink pillars lined the corridors running all along. Bust of the King adorned the centre of the courtyard.
Navlakha Palace
This is the main palace of the city and is also called the Rajnagar palace. It is believed that it had 22 layers of sculptures or carvings on its walls, but most of it is gone.
Elephant base portico of Navalakha Palace
As we walked towards this palace, the first thing we noticed was a unique portico. Base of the portico walls is in the form of elephants made in cement. Apparently, it is one of the first buildings to use cement in construction. It seems Rameshwar Singh was very fond of elephants as you see them everywhere in Rajmagar architecture.
What Must Have Been an Ornate Darbar Hall
Step inside and you see a darbar hall with tall spiral pillars arranged in a circular shape. The influence of European architecture is palpable. The roof has fallen and floor looks like a piece of jungle.
Other ruined buildings surround Navalakha Palace.
Temples of Rajnagar
Shiva Temple
We first visited a dilapidated Shiva temple. It must have been a beautiful temple when it was built. You can see the Nagar style Shikhara surrounded by mandapas. You cannot enter the temple now, you can only admire it from a distance. One distinct feature I noticed was the elephant and lion sculptures on the Shikhara, standing proudly on the projecting platforms.
Shiva Temple of Rajnagar with Elephants and Lions Carved on It
It is practicing temple though. The Shivalinga is now in the temple compound. The Nandi and the tortoise are still looking towards it. A brahmin family still takes care of the devatas by doing the daily pujas.
Durga Temple
Durga Temple stands close to Navalakha palace. It is a large temple with a tall Shikhara flanked by two smaller ones and a dome. We climbed a flight of steps to enter the larger mandapa of temple.
Pillars of Durga Temple Mandapa
The ceiling has paintings in blue color that reminded me south Indian temples like Nataraja Temple of Chidambaram or Brihdeeshwara temple of Thanjavur. The mandapa is full of ornate square pillars. One enters the temple through well sculpted arches standing on round pillars.
Garbhagriha has a Durga Murti. Surrounding it are temples with other deities like Sri Ram and Ganesha.
Kali Temple
In pristine white marble located next to a pond, this temple pulls you by its magnetism. I am told the original temple was much larger and stood right on the banks of the pond. It must have looked beautiful then reflecting in the waters.
Kali Temple at Rajnagar Madhubani
Even today, it is the best-preserved temple and building in Rajnagar. A huge bell hangs outside the temple, and white paint tells visitors not to ring it. White on white stucco work reminds you of monuments like Taj Mahal.
Temple stands on a high plinth, the walls of which are painted with the different swaroops or manifestations of the Devi. Inside the Garbhagriha stands a giant four-armed Kali standing on a corpse. Kali Stuti or the glory of Kali is written in red letter on the walls leading to the garbhagriha.
Arched gateways take you around the temple.
Tripur Sundari Temple
This is another large temple of Tripursundari Devi, also known as Kamakhya Devi. Also on a higher Jagati or platform, this temple too has a tall Shikhara surrounded by smaller ones and a square mandpa in front. Colorful peacocks adorn the niches between doorjamb and arches.
Tripursundari Temple
Garbhagriha has a beautiful large murti of four-armed Tripursundari sitting on a pink lotus.
At the end of the premises, you see a lovely city or maybe the palace gate in red. As you walk through the ruins you realize that while palaces fall, temples continue to live and worshipped. That is the power of spirituality.
Unfortunately, the whole premises is suffering from encroachments. We saw cattle grazing in and around the palace. Even in its ruins, Rajnagar has a good tourism potential with a bit of conservation and soft infrastructure.
Travel Tips for Rajnagar
City Gateway
You can do it as a day trip from Darbhanga which is less than 50 kms from here.
I did not see any facility to stay or even for food in Rajnagar, so plana accordingly.
We combined it with a trip to Madhubani and the painting villages surrounding it. You can easily combine the two.
You can visite Janakpur too on this trip.
To see Rajnagar ruins, you need 1-2 hours and longer if the architecture interests you.
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